Study Abroad

At Agricole Hospitality’s new Indianola diner, America’s melting pot has never tasted so delicious.

Julie Soefer
img_1102
img_1102

For immigrants looking to start a new life, the port through which they pass to reach a final destination is never forgotten. For Morgan Weber’s family, that port was Indianola, near Matagorda Bay, and is now the namesake of his new restaurant.


“We knew we did not want to repeat a Coltivare,” explains Weber, referring to Agricole Hospitality’s Heights restaurant he owns with chef-partner Ryan Pera. He and Pera pondered the American notion of the melting pot; their team members find their roots in Italy via Ellis Island, San Francisco by way of Vietnam, and beyond. Paul Lewis, exec chef of Agricole’s three EaDo concepts — Indianola, Vinny’s pizza joint and Miss Carousel cocktail bar — hails from the U.K. They decided to “do immigrant food in America, presented in a fresh way.”

Weber reimagined the space — a 1940s warehouse with exposed brick — as a light, bright diner, another departure from Coltivare’s rustic aesthetic. Find neat rows of blush banquettes, high ceilings bedecked with greenery, and a long bar that faces an open kitchen.

Lewis’ slow-cooked pork ribs are a house fave: They’re rubbed down with green-chili paste, marinated overnight, baked, fried, tossed with Korean BBQ sauce, and topped with pickled daikon radish.

His new weekend brunch menu is just as distinct, with a pecan-sprinkled warm chocolate-and-cinnamon babka (Seinfeld fans rejoice!), and Moroccan-style fried eggs, presented in a spicy tomato ragu alongside toasted sourdough. And it isn’t brunch without a cocktail; the carrot-juice bloody Mary, garnished with pickled veggies, sounds guilt-free ... ish.

Breakfast service is soon to follow — and Weber’s own American dream of achieving an all-day diner will be realized.

AT TOP: The passion fruit pot de crème at Indianola

Uncategorized

READY TO MAKE some changes to your outdoor space? Want to create the backyard paradise you have been thinking of? Refresh your spring and summer setting with Brixos.

Keep Reading Show less

HOUSTON, WHICH WAS just last week named by Rolling Stone as the "Hot Scene" of 2021 in an article highlighting the city's resurgent rap community, seems to be making it onto a lot of "best of" lists recently, and yesterday we made it onto another one. TIME revealed yesterday its annual list of the "World's Greatest Places," and Houston made the cut.

Keep Reading Show less
People + Places

Sherry Mary made with Sherry and Madeira wine grown only on an island off the coast of Africa

POSTINO WINE CAFE, the beloved, Arizona-headquartered collection of beer and wine-focused restaurants with buzzing Houston outposts in the Heights and Montrose, just rolled out its first-ever cocktail menu. And although all of the cocktails on the refreshingly low alcohol content menu are spirit-free — think cocktails crafted from fortified wines, aperitifs and exotic beers instead of the usual, throw-your-afternoon-off-track fare — the spirited menu is bold in both vision and flavor.

Keep Reading Show less
Food