Now Let Us Prey

Dig into celeb chef Chris Shepherd’s bloody unique new steakhouse, set in an old Montrose church.

Julie Soefer
img_614
img_614

Formerly Mark’s American Cuisine for nearly two decades, and a ’20s-era church in its original life, the cathedral-esque structure near the corner of Westheimer and Dunlavy is again reborn. Celebrated Underbelly chef Chris Shepherd has opened the first iteration of his One Fifth: One Fifth Steak.


Far from traditional in every sense, the two-story dining concept — which features stained glass windows by Houston street artist Gonzo 247 — will rotate every year for five years; by fall it will become Romance Languages and feature Western European fare. The art, including the windows, and Matthew Tabor art deco pieces, will also rotate.

Thoughtful nuances like candles in glass jars brought out to each table seem to be nothing more than tchotchkes, but at closer glance turn out to little lanterns fueled by rendered down Wagyu beef fat accompanied with house-made sourdough. A bright idea — and edible! The single-page menu is equal parts simple and impressive. The grilled bacon sausage, served over crispy hash browns with crème fraiche, is made in house, while the steaks, sourced from local purveyors 44 Farms and Marble Ranch, are cooked in cast-iron, and are best paired with sides like the twice-baked potatoes or “lamburger helper” — Shepherd’s grownup take on hamburger helper.

Shepherd’s eclectic tastes span beyond the menu to the vast dining space, which has welcomed the addition of a cocktail bar and raw bar, where your attention will likely be drawn to the baby-blue velvet framed picture of Mr. Spock. Why? “Why not!” exclaim the bar staff, who say it’s supposed to spur conversation.

And because Chris Shepherd wants it there.

Uncategorized

Crane at Minute Maid Park, located near his two Downtown restaurants, Potente and Osso & Kristalla

In the fifth annual portfolio, meet the icons whose ambitions and accomplishments have shaped those of America’s most fascinating city — and the new titans guiding Houston to an exciting future. Presented in partnership with Residences at The Allen and Bentley Houston

Keep ReadingShow less
People + Places

Justin Yu and Bobby Heugel (photo by Jenn Duncan)

Houston bar pioneers know there can never be too much of a good thing, so they keep evolving with the times and shaking things up. Here’s the latest sip!

Keep ReadingShow less
Food