Right Track

Alongside the railroad tracks and funky warehouses of the arts district, relaxed, urbane Poitín scores.

Trevor Gerland
Braised Lamb Neck
Braised Lamb Neck

The namesake liquor of the Washington Avenue Arts District’s new Poitín is oft described as Irish moonshine. And so, when tasting it for the first time — in The First Rule Is, a spin on a fruity gin-and-egg-whites Clover Club cocktail — you might brace for rubbing-alcohol harshness. But, like almost everything about Dubliner Ian Tucker’s stylish Poitín (2313 Edwards St., in Sawyer Yards, 713.470.6686), it’s actually unexpectedly unassuming. It’s like vodka’s quietly offbeat cousin.


Even Tucker himself, the Balls Out Burger impresario who affected a broodingly handsome air for his profile portrait in CityBook this spring, is actually affable and easygoing. “As an immigrant, I have been embraced by the Houston community,” he says, explaining the good-natured ethos of his new eatery. “I have envisioned this restaurant to be a culinary embodiment of the city’s inclusive spirit.”

Old Graceful Rose 2The Old Graceful Rose with Maker’s Mark, Lillet Rose, vanilla, port and floral water.

The ambitiously large-scale Poitín, dark and industrial with a big-city-bar vibe inside — with an herb-garden-ringed patio in back overlooking first an active train track, then in turns in the distance, a warehouse rehearsal site for rock bands and an expansive, glittery new take on the Downtown skyline — seeks to homage Houston’s diversity in its menu. The flavors of the multicultural menu by New Orleans-born Kiran’s alum Dominick Lee are just about the only thing at Poitín that aren’t surprisingly understated. Bold tastes dominate. The hummus appetizer is topped with “pulled” harissa-zinged lamb neck, and La Galhina is a half chicken that’s marinated in Thai-spiced coconut milk before grilling.

Poitín, which adds brunch in June, is a uniquely urbane experience, a laidback vision of Houston, as seen through the eyes of a hip European.

AT TOP: Poitín’s harissa-spiked braised lamb neck with dates, prunes and cauliflower couscous

Uncategorized

AN INTERVIEW WITH Dr. Katie Eick, CEO & Founder of Rockin' Pets, Rollin' Vets & Doctor of Veterinary Medicine

What were your biggest challenges in 2020? Well, the onset of Covid would have to be our biggest challenge. Before we knew too much about how it was transmitted, we enacted mask mandates and changed the way we interacted with each other and our clients. We shortened our hours and paired off into groups of two so that if one group got sick or exposed, we would have other groups intact to be able to continue working.

Keep Reading Show less

Photo @rothko_chapel on Instagram

LAST WEEK WAS brutal, Houston. Take this weekend as a chance to recharge with fab food, a livestream workout or some shopping. Here are our picks!

Keep Reading Show less

AS WE SOON roll into March and reflect over the last 12 months, it's pretty tough to deny that it's been a full year of truly remarkable disruption. Starting at this time last year when the dreaded Corona virus made the scene, it has since left 500,000 Americans dead and millions sick.

Keep Reading Show less
Opinions