The Rusty Parrot's courtyard
THE CLUES ARE there from the start: The Jackson Hole airport entrance is marked with an iconic arch made of elk antlers. The airport-transfer driver has binoculars perched on his dash. And the famously jagged Tetons immediately beckon on the picturesque drive to the lodge.
Jackson Hole is the 400-square-mile valley between the Gros Ventre and Teton mountain ranges. Its namesake town, Jackson, Wy., is a special place where several identities converge. It’s the heartbeat of the Wild West, the old American frontier. It’s also filled with spectacular, geologically significant features and its awe-inspiring wilderness. And finally, it’s a coveted destination among a posh travel set seeking rustic-chic vacation vibes; Jackson consistently tops lists of wealthiest towns in America.
The Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa originally opened in 1990, when the laid-back luxury train was first pulling into Jackson. The town’s first boutique-style hotel, it’s today run by the original owner’s son, who helped build it as a freshman in high school. He lived on-property, enjoying chef-made cookies as an after-school treat (those delicious cookies are set out daily at 3pm for guests’ enjoyment, FYI). Destroyed by a fire in 2019, it is newly rebuilt, and reopened in July as a pillar of high-end hospitality.
The new building has plenty of nods to the old one, which was beloved and considered iconic by many in the region and in the travel industry. Much of its priceless art was lost in the fire, but has been painstakingly recreated, often by the original artist. The design is effortlessly stylish, uniting the classic — wainscotting, stonework, rich textured fabrics — with the contemporary, a la the modern two-way fireplace in the Wild Sage restaurant.
A grand staircase spans the three floors, and on a brisk autumn morning, a walk to the coffee station in the second-floor library feels like a walk down the hall of a good friend’s (a very tastefully rich good friend) home. The third floor offers a sprawling deck with an outdoor fireplace, and a second terrace, the “wildlife perch” from which grazing creatures may be spotted.
The bar and lounge area
The second-floor library, where cookies and coffee can be found
The Rusty Parrot lobby
The cozy spa
The Grand Tetons (photo courtesy Visit Jackson Hole)
While it’s definitely worthwhile to soak in the lodge’s coziness, the town square is mere steps away, and there is plenty of cozy to be had here, too. Pop in Jackson Drug, a former drug store and soda shoppe that is now a diner with wild-game burgers and boozy milkshakes. We recommend the Wilson Mom Burger with brie and balsamic, and sub a glass of rosé for fries. Peruse the highest of high-end westernwear — the vintage stores here are to die for! — and its cheekily branded souvenir counterparts; alternatively, creative, approachably priced, and entirely locally sourced goodies can be found at a shop called Made.
Depending on the time of year, the glorious wilderness is rife for exploration. There’s skiing at Teton Village and Snow King Resort, the latter of which recently opened a spectacular new observatory. While Yellowstone is a two-and-a-half hour drive from Jackson, the entrance to Grand Teton National Park is just 15 minutes from Rusty Parrot. A half- or full-day wildlife safari is an incredible way to see the region’s hallmarks. Knowledgeable guides provide colorful history lessons, communicating ways in which the land and its wildlife are being cared for, preserved and protected. The eagle-eyed might see a herd of bison, some feeding moose, migrating elk, or regally perched bald eagles. And the truly lucky will get a glimpse of a grizzly, a majestic beast shuffling over vast fields, eager to find more food before retreating to its den for winter.
And with that, the “Big Five” have been spotted. Celebrate with a pint at the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, located right on the square — or a decadent meal at Wild Sage.
Photo courtesy Visit Jackson Hole
A summer view from a suite balcony