Roger and Debbie Clemens at ‘Kick’
Beef carpaccio atop La Griglia’s chic marble tables
If familiar with the original La Griglia on West Gray founded by Tony Vallone in 1991, you recall the hot, table-hopping scene by day and night, as well as the distinctive perfume of grilling and garlic upon arrival. With lofty ceilings and walls paved in bright whimsical murals painted by a local artist, the upbeat new-Italian vibe attracted the movers and shakers of Houston. “[When] Tony’s closed for a while, La Griglia became the playground for River Oaks,” said Brandon Busch, a senior executive who was hired as a waiter at the eatery and moved up to management.
After Fertitta purchased La Griglia, it remained the perch for politicians, socialites and visiting celebrities because management took extra care of them. “It was always a different kind of restaurant — a maitre’d-driven concept. From the late John O’Quinn, Ceron, and the Farbs, to John Whitmire and Ted Cruz, we learned our guests’ wants and needs,” says Busch. “Back when it opened, there weren’t many Downtown restaurants, so we would get a big pre-theatre pop at 5pm, and it never stopped.” There was always a wait — and lots of wheeling and dealing to get a table — but they turned quickly.
Like at the newly relocated La Griglia on West Dallas, you didn’t have to be a regular to relish the approachable menu, lively environment and welcoming team. Many of the greatest hits remain on the new menu, like the luscious shrimp-and-crab cheesecake served warm with lemon pesto, Little Gem Caesar, red snapper La Griglia, and gratis pizza bread (but please bring back the olive oil dip!).
New chef Mark Ladner, a James Beard Foundation award winner and two-time Michelin star recipient, has added fresh takes including a mouth-melting veal piccatine, a must-try burrata di Puglia with heirloom tomatoes and basil oil, and tagliatelle with prosciutto di Parma, béchamel and Parmesan gratinee rich enough to share.
“Being born in Austin, I’ve had a great time getting back to my Texas roots,” says the chef. Although the seasonal menus source ingredients directly from Italy, Ladner added wagyu beef from family-owned R-C Ranch in Bailey’s Prairie, Texas, making La Griglia the only restaurant in Houston to offer this. Another new feature is Ladner’s Hanging Hen entrée — a whole Falcon Lake Farms chicken carved tableside and served elegantly for two.
And those tables, just like the old days, are peppered with high-end wines to match. “We’re selling a crazy amount of wine — bottles are flying out of here,” says Busch. Speaking of drinks, the tight bar area adjacent to the dining room is getting lots of action, much like the “watering-hole for lawyers” at the old location. Back in the ’90s, the happy hour was four-deep with thirsty guests and you could barely get in the place (which was roomy).
Inspired by restaurants found along the Italian Riviera and Cote d’Azure, La Griglia’s new spaces exhibit a European design sensibility with luxe finishes: marble floors, supple leathers, dramatic steel-framed windows. A marble staircase leads to a second floor with four event/private dining spaces. “An elevated dining experience with great attention to detail,” said Fertitta of his vision.
“Few restaurants still offer tableside presentations like we do with the veal, pastas and more, and we added a dress code so that the experience stays upscale,” added Busch. “Houston was ready to bring fine dining back.”
A photo of the original location on West Gray
The rustic-Italian exterior of the new West Dallas space
Life’s a beach in Santa Monica
Between the good vibes and the whole weather-not-being-a-thing thing, it’s not hard to understand why people from all walks of life gravitate to the City of Angels. But above all, L.A. remains a place where the rich and famous, along with those who like to cosplay being rich and famous, thrive.
Take the Fairmont Century Plaza, for instance. The iconic hotel recently underwent a post-Covid renovation to the tune of $2.5 billion (yes, with a “b”), preserving its mid-century nostalgia while nodding to Los Angeles’ laidback luxury of the 2020s. In addition to 400 guest rooms (including 49 suites), the 16-floor property, situated on more than six Beverly-Hills-adjacent acres, has dozens of privately owned residences, a beautiful art collection — as well as Fairmont Gold, the brand’s 70-room hotel-within-a-hotel for uber-VIP guests.
The hotel’s brasserie, Lumiere, has what might be the best baguette ever, delightfully salty and served with extra-creamy butter. Stop in for bread and a cocktail, or stay and enjoy a plate of squid-ink pasta with spicy crabmeat and an unexpected hit of cilantro.
The Fairmont’s bottom-floor spa is a must, boasting its share of L.A. intrigue: chlorophyll water, experiential rain showers, bio-hacking treatments, a hammam room.
But for the true celeb experience, make a day trip to the Hotel Bel-Air, where a tucked-away spa sits among acres of lush gardens and instantly whisks visitors away to the privacy-laden land of Hollywood Glam.
Those who want to make more of a splash will find themselves in Brentwood, dining at hip, new restaurants like the Barcelona-inspired Teleferic. Or perhaps back in Venice, shopping along Abbott Kinney — Made in Earth jewelry; sustainable cashmere by Naadam; health-centric items a la green juice and essential oils — before hitting the vintage shops and the beach.
Meanwhile, Downtown L.A. may be a little more subdued, but isn’t without its charm. The Hotel Per La, occupying a former bank building that was previously the NoMad Hotel until 2022, is in the heart of one of the most walkable districts in the city. Nearby, the dual-property Moxy and AC Hotel just opened Level 8, an immersive-nightlife destination with eight different restaurants and lounges on the eighth floor.
That’s convenient, seeing as there’s something Houstonians might be reluctant to admit about L.A.: The traffic is, indeed, measurably worse.
The verdant lobby of Hotel Per la
Pasta at Per L’Ora inside Hotel Per la
The Fairmont
The bakery at The Fairmont
The spa at The Fairmont