One of the In Crowd's most beloved restaurants has finally reopened after having shuttered due to Covid in March. The two-level French affair, La Table on Post Oak, began welcoming guests back on Wednesday, with thoughtful safety measures in place, naturally.

Unsurprisingly, the outdoor spaces, including both the café setup in front and the more tucked-away and newly redecorated side patio under twinkling lights, have been popular, with many diners opting to start with a slow cocktail — the Place Victor Hugo number has vodka, Saint Germain, Chambord and tropical fruit — while slurping cold raw oysters with chilled mignonette.

Highlights from Chef's Stephen Conklin's streamlined new menu — co-created with his brethren from the New York-based Bastion restaurant group, joining forces in an all-hands-on-deck moment to help get La Table back up and running — include a wondrous and hearty spin on French onion soup hiding a braised beef shank under its creamier-than-usual topping of broiled and melty Gruyere.

The red snapper entrée is a spin of bouillabaisse, complete with a saffron infusion and dollop of eggy rouille sauce — perfectly warming on a slightly cool November night. For dessert, look no further than tarte tartin a la mode. Duh.

"This year has been a challenge not only for our industry, but for the entire world," said Antonio Begonja, chief operating officer of Bastion. "We used the time to find the efficiencies in our operations, improve and refresh the concept and make it more approachable for the community in Houston. We want to bring the best of La Table back to the community and create a fun environment for all to enjoy."