One Year After the Covid Craziness Began, Hybrid Market-Restaurants Are Here to Stay

One Year After the Covid Craziness Began, Hybrid Market-Restaurants Are Here to Stay

Offerings at Local Foods Market (photo by Julie Soefer)

THIS TIME LAST year, when grocery stores were running out of essentials, Houston eateries got creative. Realizing they had a surplus of things like eggs, milk, bread and produce, they began hauling out shelves to create pop-up markets inside their restaurants. Suddenly, Houston's finest diners were comically (and necessarily) offering rolls of toilet paper with to-go orders. Fast-forward one year, and the grocery store-restaurant hybrid is here to stay, but with a refined and mostly local spin. Here are some of the latest dynamic-duo concepts to open their doors to hungry shoppers.


LOCAL FOODS MARKET Benjy's in Rice Village is now Local Foods Market (2424 Dunstan Rd #125). Inside the stylish Michael Hsu-designed space, winding aisles are filled with offerings like vegan sushi and artisan olives and pickles. Benjy's former upstairs lounge is now the wine room, seemingly homaging its former happy-hour life. Any bottle can be taken to-go or enjoyed outside on the new patio. Local Foods Market also offers a la carte items, like the all-Texas charcuterie board or crispy twice cooked French fries, to pair with the wine.

Local Foods Market (photo by Julie Soefer)

KICKIN' LOCAL MARKET & EATERY In the East End, Kickin' Kombucha (5420 Lawndale St.) adapted to the pandemic by partnering with other local food purveyors to provide delivery and pick-up that could be ordered from one place. Now, Kickin' is expanding to include breakfast and lunch service, operated by chef Victoria Elizondo of Cochinita & Co, with rotating seasonal kombucha and a beer and wine program. A new retail space will include H-Town faves like produce from Finca Tres Robles, gelato from Sweet Cup and Urban Cowboy "candy" — relish with jalapenos, celery seeds and garlic — from Underhill Urban Farm Co.

HARRIS COUNTY GENERAL STORE Across the street, Harris County General Store (5434 Lawndale St.) is prepping for its late-April opening. Inside, expect traditional Texas barbecue made with East End corazon, or heart, along with accoutrements and accessories for the at-home pitmaster — such as the 'errythang' rub, a secret blend of spices for all meats.

NoPo CAFÉ MARKET & BAR In May, local star restaurateur Benjamin Berg will open NoPo Café, Market & Bar (1244 North Post Oak Rd.) in "NoPo" (the nickname Berg has coined for the area around North Post Oak). NoPo will feature a large selection of unique local provisions, premade meals and freshly baked pastries, plus breakfast, lunch and dinner in the 60-seat dining room and at the 10-seat, full-service bar.

Restaurateur Benjamin Berg

AGNES CAFÉ & PROVISIONS Michael Hsu also designed the building that will soon house Agnes (2132 Bissonnet St #100), a café-grocery-store hybrid opening in June in the former Tropicales space. It's the first project by childhood friends Molly Voorhees, President of Becks Prime, and Carolyn Dorros, a vice president of Wolff Companies. Agnes will offer indoor-outdoor, counter-service-style, Mediterranean-tinged breakfast and lunch, and sit-down dinner. A retail portion includes grab-and-go food, baked goods, gifts and more.

Molly Voorhees and Carolyn Dorros, owners of Agnes

Food
Leadership in Action: John Kuykendall Traded Newcaster Dream for Success in Luxury Retail

John Kuykendall, Showroom Manager, Sub-Zero, Wolf and Cove

How did you get to where you are today? Growing up I had envisioned myself as a news anchor, living in NY and enthusiastically saying into the camera “Good Morning America!”. To this day, I am still a news/political junkie. My mother owned fur salons so specialty retail, luxury retail was in my blood through the family business. Eventually, mom shuttered the stores and I was recruited to a large specialty retailer. Over the next 30 years, I was in commissioned sales on the sales floor, became a department manager, worked my way up to buyer and store manager. Although I never became a newscaster, I did live in NYC for a few years. But Texas is home and with aging grandparents, I felt the pull to come back to my roots. A headhunter approached me. I never envisioned myself in the high-end appliance market, but there are so many similarities. Clients want a memorable experience; whether shopping for diamonds and fur or remodeling their kitchen.

Keep Reading Show less

The patio at Heights & Co.

IT'S ALMOST TIME for summer vacations, but Heights & Co. is offering escapes on its newly redecorated patio in the form of wine and movie nights — no passport needed! Visit France, Italy, Greece, Spain, and more through wine pairings and tasting menus, all complemented by movies set in each location.

Keep Reading Show less
Food

Ally Shell and Martijn van Koolwijk

BLAME IT ON the Moon! Mercury Chamber Orchestra’s 2025 gala at the Thompson hotel — themed “Moonlight Serenade and chaired by Ally Shell and Martijn Van Koolwijk — was a night of glamour and big band vibes, raising more than $350,000 for the company.

Keep Reading Show less
Art+Culture