Levi Goode Reels In Two New Concepts, Forays Into Fine Dining with Memorial City Restaurant Duo
Jody Horton
Sep. 13, 2023
Gulf fish at Credence
LEVI GOODE, HEAD honcho of Goode Company Restaurants, has secretly been working for years on his first standalone projects under his own personal brand. Credence and Sidebar will be adjacent to each other in The McKinley at Memorial City, debuting during the summer of 2024.
“Credence and Sidebar are unlike any Goode Co. concepts,” said chef and owner Levi Goode. “They are reflective of my experiences as a restaurateur and chef and draw inspiration from my family’s heritage. It’s exciting to pull back the curtain and celebrate where we are headed.”
Credence is a South-Texas-ranch-inspired, upscale concept serving regional American fare reflecting Texas culinary traditions and live-fire cooking rooted in classic cooking techniques. A two-time James Beard nominated restaurateur, Goode drew inspiration for Credence from cooking with his grandmother and father, hunting, travels, his education — and 20-plus years steering Goode Company Restaurants.
“The development of this new brand and its subsequent concepts adds a new dimension to our company that allows for more sustainability and creativity with the goal of bringing Texas together — communally, culturally and culinarily. I’ll remain president of Goode Company Restaurants and with an additional focus on the Levi Goode brand.”
Steak at Credence
Champagne and caviar at Sidebar
Dessert at Sidebar
Levi Goode
Live-fire cooking will be at the center of the menu at Credence, with dishes like the fire-roasted seafood tower, dry-aged duck for two, and hearth-roasted swordfish on the bone. From the finest dry-aged prime beef and traditional dishes from Texas ranches to the Gulf Coast, each plate will be presented with elevated style. Dishes will be Southern in spirit, with some designed to be shared, encouraging communal dining and gathering around the table.
The cocktail and wine menu at Credence is designed to pair effortlessly with the dishes. Guests can anticipate elevated riffs on classic cocktails such as a seasonal take on a Paloma, a re-tweaked Negroni, and a fun take on vermouth and soda. Classic cocktails will be served alongside Credence-specific creations like West Texas Parisa, hearth-roasted bone marrow, and spring-mushroom-and-cornbread gnocchi.
Meanwhile, speakeasy-style Sidebar was inspired by the Texas oil boom of the early 1900s. This reservation-only restaurant and cocktail bar will feature well-executed classic cocktails, big, bold wines and highly allocated Champagne. House-infused spirits and garnishes picked and peeled by hand will complement the rich ingredients of every drink.
Wines from classic producers, regions and styles, and a wide selection of old-world selections are planned to complement the food at Sidebar. Special cocktails like a classic gin martini served with a sidecar and garnishes, a Pink Lady with an elegant Texan twist, and reworked Old Fashioneds and Manhattans will be on offer. The food menu will boast classic American fare with luster, featuring dry-aged steaks, oysters topped with caviar, and more.
“My hope is that both Credence and Sidebar serve as local havens where people can come together and enjoy a good meal, a handmade cocktail and a good time. We’re excited to continue to serve the Memorial area of Houston, which has been so good to us,” says Goode.
Exceptional hospitality will be the standard at both restaurants, with an emphasis on traditional tableside service for salads, carved meats from the hearth, desserts, and more. Credence and Sidebar will both feature indoor and patio seating. Goode has tapped international architecture firm Gensler to design the project.
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Joseph Havel Reflects on Leaving Academia, Book Burning and His Unlikely Artistic Collaborator
Sep. 13, 2023
From left to right: 'Fahrenheit 451,' 'Separate But Bound,' and 'Of Mice and Men,' all by Havel
IT’S MONDAY, AND sculptor and painter Joseph Havel is at his home studio, a former auto-parts store located off the Hardy Toll Road, conveniently located in the same building of the foundry where he creates his surreal, gravity-defying bronze sculptures. He’s busy supervising a team of art handlers tasked with transporting two new sculptures to Josh Pazda Hiram Butler Gallery for his exhibit 451, which opens Thursday, Sept. 14.
“They’re big and gnarly,” says Havel of his new works — totemic stacks of cardboard boxes cast in bronze after having been torn with intention by his artistic collaborator Hannah, an African Grey parrot. “Hannah chews up the boxes, and I assemble them,” says Havel. “Sometimes she works on them when once they’ve been assembled a little bit.”
Over time, Hannah has become more confident with her shredding, and inspired Havel to create larger and more complex forms from the results. Although their weight holds them firmly to the ground, these sculptures seem to teeter and move, like dancing shamans of isolated tribe, or the scarred and burnt out architecture of a city that lies in dust.
The title of Havel’s exhibit comes from the 1953 novel by Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451, which describes a world where books are illegal and when discovered burned to ashes by firemen, who also ignite the houses where the books are found. (While researching firemen, Bradbury was told 451 degrees is the temperature paper combustion takes place.) There are multiple connections between heat and fire and Havel’s current body of work, such as the extreme temperatures necessary to melt bronze to be poured into a direct cast. And fire as a symbol of resistance as well as a weapon of oppression inspired a new series of “spice” paintings Havel will show alongside his sculptures.
In the spring of 2022, while enjoying a well-deserved artistic retreat in the South of France, where Havel began experimenting with spices purchased in a local village market, he witnessed first-hand the peaceful demonstrations as well as the fires set by anarchists to protest President Emmanuel Macron’s push to raise the legal age of retirement. Earlier that same year, a much ballyhooed book burning led by a pastor in Tennessee also hit a nerve, and each spice painting is titled with the name of a challenged or banned book, including The Catcher in Rye, Cat’s Cradle, and Naked Lunch.
To create a painting, Havel lays his canvas on the floor, applies marks with gel medium, and then pours fragrant orange, yellow, and red powdered spices over the gel. It’s a quick process, one he compares to Jackson Pollock’s famous drip painting technique, except after the initial rush of action, Havel will step back and let the painting sit for days, weeks, even months, taking time to decide what else, in anything, should be added to the painting. “The beginning is quick,” says Havel of the process. “The end? It depends… .”
The sculptures and paintings in 451 were made in the 15 months after Havel stepped down in June 2022 as director of Glassell School of Art. It’s safe to say retirement from academia suits Havel. “It’s been great,” says Havel. “I had planned to do it for a number of years, but got slowed down by Covid, because I felt that I needed to stay with the school during the pandemic.” Two days after leaving Glassell, Havel was on a plane to France. “If I hadn’t done that, I might have missed the habit of having to be at Glassell,” says Havel. “I had this wonderful time of cleaning my palette so that I could think about my life differently.”
At age 69, Havel still loves to strap on a guitar, crank up an amp, and tear through his favorite and self-penned rock songs, sometimes accompanied by his former student Ken King who runs the in-house foundry. But for most days throughout the brutal heat of the summer, while his partner, artist Mary Flanagan, was teaching at Dartmouth, Havel hunkered down in his studio with Hannah and reveled in the sometimes hermetic life of an artist. “I’m actually a pretty solitary person,” says Havel, “so that works out.”
Sharing the stage with Havel Sept. 14-Oct. 28 at Josh Pazda Hiram Butler Gallery are works by Nestor Topchy and Heather Day.
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