Spring for These New Italian, Mediterranean and Mexican Eateries! All the Best Food News Now
May. 10, 2023
Wagyu Tartare at Albi (photo by Michael Anthony)
THE BEES ARE buzzing, flowers are blooming — rain, rain, go away! — and the restaurants keep sprouting. Here’s a taste of what’s new.
Albi
Spinach and feta bulema (photo by Michael Anthony)
Intimate and elaborate Albi recently joined restaurants like Brasserie 19 and Zanti on West Gray’s hopping corridor in River Oaks. Tucked away on the second floor of the center, it sports lush interiors in jewel tones with red-silk-shade lamps, velveteen banquettes, chandeliers and ambient lighting. Named after the Arabic word, “my heart,” Albi is a labor of love between siblings Nano and Jimy Fakhoury, operators of Mary’z Mediterranean restaurants, and partner Aladdin Nimri. Chef-consultant Mark Cox worked with executive chef Christian Hernandez, former chef de cuisine of March, on the menu. Albi strives to bridge Middle Eastern cultures including Lebanese, Turkish and Greek, turning out dishes like shrimp falafel with tarator sauce and heirloom tomatoes; beets bil tahini, and bluefin tuna tartar with apricot coulis. Tempting mains include king trumpet mushroom shawarma with tzatziki, and Jidori chicken roulade stuffed with house made turmeric and chicken sausage. The seasonally driven cocktail program also aligns with Mediterranean influences with an array of signature cocktails, fresh mocktails and wine.
Dante's
Dante's (photo courtesy Bear Media Group)
Dante’s will open in the shuttered Concura space off Mid Lane May 16. Longtime restaurateur Brian Doke, a Tiny Boxwoods alum, has a passion for Italian food and wine and was a regular at Concura. “The combination of a charming and quaint interior coupled with an airy patio for dining al fresco makes for a wonderful dining experience,” says Doke. To helm the kitchen, Doke tapped Ilias Gugole, who attended culinary school in Verona and cooked for top restaurants in Italy. Expect shareable starters, salads which highlight various regions of Italy including Rome, Venice and Naples, and six different pastas. A rotating “catch of the day” main courses might include duck breast, roasted salmon and ribeye steak. As far as design is concerned, the space has undergone a bright transformation with white walls, greenery, and a more open patio area, while beautiful tilework and an open kitchen remain.
Little Rey
Ford Fry (State of Grace, Superica) returns with a new-to-Houston concept, Little Rey, in early 2024. Designed by Michael Hsu, it'll be a Northern Mexican-inspired place with casual street eats (tacos, salads) and inventive soft-serve ice cream. A walk-up window emphasizes the casual, indoor-outdoor feel, which will also be achieved through accents of reclaimed wood, vintage Mexican festival masks, a soundtrack of Willie and Waylon, and a simple drink menu of aqua frescas, margs and Mexican beers.
FRNDS
FRNDS fried snapper bites
Rice Village just got friendlier. Located in the former Mi Luna space on University Blvd, FRNDS (a.k.a. friends) aims to be a gathering spot for groups. Expect a softly lit clubby vibe with spins on cocktail classics like a tequila-based Lemon Drop martini and the signature Friends with Benefits cocktail. The shareable menu created by chef Mark Holley of Davis Street at Hermann Park features tapas-style eats. Come hungry for Creole shrimp cocktail, steamed dumplings, and buttermilk fried chicken tenders. Hearty entrees include brick lemon chicken, Thai salmon and more.
Bari Ristorante
Branzino at Bari (Photo by Debora Smail)
Elegant, high-end Italian restaurant Bari will open May 15 in the River Oaks District. The hotly anticipated spot, located in the former Tom Ford boutique, promises an atmosphere brimming with Milan and Rome glamour. The menu was designed by chef Renato De Pirro, certified Italian Master Chef and formerly with Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca. A peek at the opening menu reveals a spread of antipasti ranging from foie gras terrine with strawberry compote to beef carpaccio with lemon truffle dressing, as well as pizzas, salads and raw bar offerings. Expect mains like seafood and mushroom risotto; Chianti-braised short ribs with polenta; filet mignon with Borolo demiglace, and veal scallopine. Naturally, there will be pasta — think lobster ravioli, pappardelle Bolognese and spaghetti with clam sauce. The restaurant will be open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
This Miami transplant is readying its debut, also in River Oaks District, and the natives are getting hungry for it. Imagine scratch-made authentic Mexican favorites whipped up fresh, light and health-conscious — we can’t wait!
Ride Safely and Creatively with Alto
Luxury rideshare Alto just announced it has a new Art Car collaboration with author Gray Malin in celebration of his new book, Coastal. Alto will have one Coastal Car on the road in each of its markets with an exclusive book preview book to explore during your ride. Why not ride safely in an artsy, clean car and read a book?
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'Freestyle'
THIS FRIDAY, May 12, Francophiles will no doubt flock to the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston for day one of the 11th annual Five Funny French Films. Presented by the MFAH with generous support from the Alliance Française de Houston, the festival features a fresh lineup of five very different comedies, including director Sophie Letourneur’s controversial Enormous (Énorme).
While the premise of Enormous is disturbing — Claire, a successful concert pianist who has postponed motherhood, ends up pregnant when her husband Fred (who is also her personal assistant, business manager, and bodyguard) decides to mess with her birth control pills — the film is actually a very smart send-up of the pressures society imposes upon both women and men as expectant parents. (At one point, Fred, ever aware of Claire’s busy schedule, assures a medical professional that he will be handling the breastfeeding using a prosthetic boob.) Real-life medical professionals, including midwives, appear as themselves in the film, adding a layer of documentary discourse to this strange, screwball comedy. The timely topics of abortion and women’s rights will no doubt be up for discussion when Letourneur, who has two children of her own, presents the film in person on Sunday, May 14.
Opening the festival is Oh My Goodness! (Juste ciel!), which tells the heartwarming story of a gang of wacky nuns who enter a bicycle race, hoping to win the prize money to repair a dilapidated local nursing home. The only problem? None of them knows how to ride a bike. More Dumb and Dumber than Lilies of the Field, Oh My Goodness! is an unpretentious, rowdy start to the three-day festival.
'Oh My Goodness!'
Also scheduled for Friday is Happy 50 (Plancha), an ensemble comedy in which an elaborately planned birthday celebration in Paros, Greece, unexpectedly turns into a rainy mess in Brittany. (With all the wine and food consumed in this one, you’re going to want to go out to eat immediately afterward.)
Coming up Saturday is Freestyle (En roue libre), in which a middle-aged woman finds herself unable to exit her automobile due to an extreme panic attack. After driving around aimlessly and finally running out of gas, her car is stolen with her in the backseat by a strapping (and strapped) dude hellbent on avenging his brother’s murder. Hilarity and a sophisticated romantic bond ensue as it is wont to do in French road movies.
Also slated for Saturday is The Innocent (L’innocent), a comedic crime caper filled with mother-and-son tensions and a soon-to-be stepfather fresh out of prison who hasn’t given up his criminal career. Merci, MFAH!
'Enormous'
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